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Fashion before plus-size : Bodies, bias, and the birth of an industry / by Downing Peters, Lauren,author.;
Includes bibliographical references and index.In 2022, it was reported that plus-sizes accounted for nearly twenty percent of all women's apparel sales in the United States and was one of the industry's few growth sectors. For many, this news seemed to herald a remarkably inclusive turn for an industry that long bartered in exclusivity. Yet the recent success of plus-size fashion obscures a rather complicated history-one that can be traced back over a century, and which illuminates the fraught relationship between fashion, fat, and weight bias in American culture.Although many regard fat as a malady of the present, in the early twentieth century it was estimated that more than one-third of American women classified as "overweight." While modern weight bias had yet to fully cement itself in the American imaginary, the limitations of mass garment manufacturing coupled with the ascendent slender beauty ideal had already relegated larger women to fashion's peripheries. By 1915, however, fashion forecasters predicted that so-called "stoutwear" was well positioned to become one of the most lucrative subsectors of the burgeoning ready-to-wear trade. In the years that followed, stoutwear manufacturers set out to create more space for the fat woman in fashion but, in doing so, revealed an ancillary motivation: that of how to design fat out of existence altogether.Fashion Before Plus-Size considers what came "before" plus-size fashion while also shedding new light on the ways that the fashion industry not only perpetuates but produces weight bias. By situating stoutwear at the confluence of mass manufacturing, beauty ideals, standardized sizing, health discourse, and consumer culture, this book exposes the flawed foundations upon which the contemporary plus-size fashion industry has been built.Electronic reproduction. Ann Arbor, MI : ProQuest, 2018. Available via World Wide Web. Access may be limited to ProQuest affiliated libraries.
Subjects: Electronic books.; Body image in women; Women's clothing industry;
On-line resources: https://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/kirtland-ebooks/detail.action?docID=7244697 -- Available online. Click here to access.;
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Fashion and age : dress, the body and later life / by Twigg, Julia,author.;
A fascinating account of the relationship between dress and age and an investigation into the changing ways in which the fashion industry interacts with older generations. The book is driven by the desire to extend the remit of the study of fashion to encompass clothing as part of everyday bodily life.Includes bibliographical references (pages 155-169) and index.Introduction -- Clothing, fashion and the body -- Ageing, embodiment and culture -- The voices of older women -- Dress and the narration of life -- Magazines, the media and Mrs. Exeter -- The high street responds : designing for the older market -- Conclusion.
Subjects: Older women; Women's clothing.; Women;
Available copies: 1 / Total copies: 1
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Women designers in the USA, 1900-2000 : diversity and difference : Jacqueline M. Atkins ... [et al.] / by Kirkham, Pat.; Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts.;
Prologue: American women in the twentieth century / Pat Kirkham, Sara A. Lichtman, and Eileen Boris -- Women designers in the USA, 1900-2000: diversity and difference / Pat Kirkham and Lynne Walker -- Women designers and the Arts and Crafts Movement / Wendy Kaplan -- The sacred hoop: Native American women designers / Pamela Kladzyk -- "Three strikes against me": African American women designers / Pat Kirkham and Shauna Stallworth -- "Wellpaying self support": women textile designers in the USA / Mary Schoeser and Whitney Blausen -- Tradition and transformation: women quilt designers / Jacqueline M. Atkins -- Women fashioning American fashion / Valerie Steele -- Women jewelry designers / Toni Greenbaum and Pat Kirkham -- Women metalsmiths / Jeannine Falino -- Designing Hollywood: women costume and production designers / Deborah Nadoolman Landis and Pat Kirkham -- In "A man's world": women industrial designers / Ella Howard and Eric Setliff -- Women furniture makers: from decorative designers to studio makers / Edward S. Cooke Jr. -- "A woman's place..."?: women interior designers -- 1900-1950 / Pat Kirkham and Penny Sparke -- 1950-2000 / Judith B. Gura -- Women landscape designers / Leslie Rose Close -- "Quietly fine"/Quietly subversive: women ceramic designers / Cheryl Buckley -- Colophon: women graphic designers / Ellen Lupton.
Subjects: Design; Women designers;
© 2000., Yale University Press,
Available copies: 1 / Total copies: 1
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Getting physical : the rise of fitness culture in America / by McKenzie, Shelly.;
Includes bibliographical references (pages 231-248) and index.Introduction: Fitness in American culture -- "Fitness begins in the high chair:" exercise in the Cold War -- "Your honeymoon figure:" women's weight reduction and exercise in the 1960s -- The heart of the man in the gray flannel suit: men's exercise promotion and the cardiac crisis -- Run for you life: jogging in the 1960s and 1970s -- Temples of the body: health clubs and 1980s fitness culture -- Epilogue: The future of fitness."In this first book on the modern history of exercise in America, Shelly McKenzie chronicles the governmental, scientific, commercial, and cultural forces that united--sometimes unintentionally--to make exercise an all-American habit. She tracks the development of a new industry that gentrified exercise and made the pursuit of fitness the hallmark of a middle-class lifestyle. Along the way she scrutinizes a number of widely held beliefs about Americans and their exercise routines, such as the link between diet and exercise and the importance of workplace fitness programs."--
Subjects: Physical fitness; Exercise;
© [2013], University Press of Kansas,
Available copies: 1 / Total copies: 1
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It's enough to make you sick : the failure of American health care and a prescription for the cure / by Lobosky, Jeffrey M.,1951-;
Includes bibliographical references and index.Great, another book on America's health care system. Don't you have better things to do, doctor, like play golf? -- Health care in America : the best that money can buy? Oh really? -- Insuring America's health : a lesson in "mis" managed care -- The U.S. pharmaceutical industry : providing the right pill for whatever ails you and the wrong pill for whatever doesn't -- The politics of American medicine : show me the money and I'll show you the problem -- America's hospitals : havens of mercy or dens of thieves? -- America's physicians : oops I'm sorry, I mean health care "providers" -- Physician reimbursement : you can't always get what you want but if you try sometimes you might find you don't even get what you need -- Pretty in pink : the influence of women on America's medical "man" power -- The medical malpractice crisis : how many lawyers does it take to chase an ambulance? -- America's emergency rooms : take two aspirin and call 911 in the morning -- The great American patient : you didn't really think I would let you off that easily, did you? -- Solutions to the American health care crisis : my wife has always accused me of being a "know-it-all" so here's my chance to prove it.
Subjects: Medical care; Health care reform; Delivery of Health Care; Health Care Reform;
© c2012., Rowman & Littlefield,
Available copies: 1 / Total copies: 1
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Fashion talks : undressing the power of style / by Tarrant, Shira,1963-editor of compilation.; Jolles, Marjorie,editor of compilation.;
Includes bibliographical references and index."Fashion Talks is a vibrant look at the politics of everyday style. Shira Tarrant and Marjorie Jolles bring together essays that cover topics such as lifestyle Lolitas, Hollywood baby bumps, haute couture hijab, gender fluidity, steampunk, and stripper shoes, and engage readers with accessible and thoughtful analyses of real-world issues. This collection explores whether style can shift the limiting boundaries of race, class, gender, and sexuality, while avoiding the traps with which it attempts to rein us in. Fashion Talks will appeal to cultural critics, industry insiders, mainstream readers, and academic experts who are curious about the role fashion plays in the struggles over identity, power, and the status quo"--P. [4] of cover.
Subjects: Women's clothing; Clothing and dress; Fashion; Feminism;
Available copies: 1 / Total copies: 1
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Dress code : [electronic resource] : Unlocking fashion from the new look to millennial pink. by Hyland, V©♭ronique.;
Why does fashion hold so much power over us? Most of us care about how we dress and how we present ourselves. Style offers clues about everything from class to which in-group we belong to. Bad Feminist for fashion, Dress Code takes aim at the institutions within the fashion industry while reminding us of the importance of dress and what it means for self-presentation. Everything -- from societal changes to the progress (or lack thereof) of women's rights to the hidden motivations behind what we choose to wear to align ourselves with a particular social group -- can be tracked through clothing. Veronique Hyland examines thought-provoking questions such as: Why has the "French girl" persisted as our most undying archetype? What does "dressing for yourself" really mean for a woman? How should a female politician dress? Will gender-differentiated fashion go forever out of style? How has social media affected and warped our sense of self-presentation, and how are we styling ourselves expressly for it? Not everyone participates in painting, literature, or film. But there is no "opting out" of fashion. And yet, fashion is still seen as superficial and trivial, and only the finest of couture is considered as art. Hyland argues that fashion is a key that unlocks questions of power, sexuality, and class, taps into history, and sends signals to the world around us. Clothes means something -- even if you're "just" wearing jeans and a T-shirt.Electronic reproduction.
Subjects: Electronic books.; Nonfiction.; Essays.; Sociology.;
© 2022.,
On-line resources: http://link.overdrive.com/?websiteID=130119&titleID=6345794 -- Click to access digital title in OverDrive.;
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A great and monstrous thing : London in the eighteenth century / by White, Jerry,1949-;
Includes bibliographical references (p. [607]-647) and index.Part One: City. -- James Gibbs' London, 1708-54 -- Robert Adam's London, 1754-99 -- Part two: People. -- Samuel Johnson's London : Britons -- Ignatius Sancho's London : Citizens of the World. -- Part three: Work. -- William Beckford's London : Commerce -- Francis Place's London : Industry and Labour -- Eliza Haywood's London : Print, Pictures and the Professions. -- Part Four: Culture. -- Teresa Cornelys's London : Public Pleasures -- Martha Stracey's London : Prostitution -- Mary Young's London : Crime and Violence. -- Part Five: Power. -- The Fieldings' London : Police, Prison and Punishment -- Jonas Hanway's London : Religion and Charity -- John Wilkes's London : Politics and Government."London in the eighteenth century was a new city, risen from the ashes of the Great Fire of 1666 that had destroyed half its homes and great public buildings. The century that followed was an era of vigorous expansion and large-scale projects, of rapidly changing culture and commerce, as huge numbers of people arrived in the shining city, drawn by its immense wealth and power and its many diversions. Borrowing a phrase from Daniel Defoe, Jerry White calls London "this great and monstrous thing," the grandeur of its new buildings and the glitter of its high life shadowed by poverty and squalor. A Great and Monstrous Thing offers a street-level view of the city: its public gardens and prisons, its banks and brothels, its workshops and warehouses--and its bustling, jostling crowds. White introduces us to shopkeepers and prostitutes, men and women of fashion and genius, street-robbers and thief-takers, as they play out the astonishing drama of life in eighteenth-century London. What emerges is a picture of a society fractured by geography, politics, religion, history--and especially by class, for the divide between rich and poor in London was never greater or more destructive in the modern era than in these years. Despite this gulf, Jerry White shows us Londoners going about their business as bankers or beggars, reveling in an enlarging world of public pleasures, indulging in crimes both great and small--amidst the tightening sinews of power and regulation, and the hesitant beginnings of London democracy."--Publisher's website.
© 2013., Harvard University Press,
Available copies: 1 / Total copies: 1
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Dress codes : How the laws of fashion made history / by Ford, Richard T.,author.;
Dress codes are as old as clothing itself. For centuries, clothing has been a wearable status symbol; fashion, a weapon in struggles for social change; and dress codes, a way to maintain political control. Merchants dressing like princes and butchers’ wives wearing gem-encrusted crowns were public enemies in medieval societies structured by social hierarchy and defined by spectacle. In Tudor England, silk, velvet, and fur were reserved for the nobility, and ballooning pants called “trunk hose” could be considered a menace to good order. The Renaissance-era Florentine patriarch Cosimo de Medici captured the power of fashion and dress codes when he remarked, “One can make a gentleman from two yards of red cloth.” Dress codes evolved along with the social and political ideals of the day, but they always reflected struggles for power and status. In the 1700s, South Carolina’s “Negro Act” made it illegal for Black people to dress “above their condition.” In the 1920s, the bobbed hair and form-fitting dresses worn by free-spirited flappers were banned in workplaces throughout the United States, and in the 1940s, the baggy zoot suits favored by Black and Latino men caused riots in cities from coast to coast.Even in today’s more informal world, dress codes still determine what we wear, when we wear it—and what our clothing means. People lose their jobs for wearing braided hair, long fingernails, large earrings, beards, and tattoos or refusing to wear a suit and tie or make-up and high heels. In some cities, wearing sagging pants is a crime. And even when there are no written rules, implicit dress codes still influence opportunities and social mobility. Silicon Valley CEOs wear t-shirts and flip-flops, setting the tone for an entire industry: women wearing fashionable dresses or high heels face ridicule in the tech world, and some venture capitalists refuse to invest in any company run by someone wearing a suit.In Dress Codes, law professor and cultural critic Richard Thompson Ford presents a “deeply informative and entertaining” (The New York Times Book Review) history of the laws of fashion from the middle ages to the present day, a walk down history’s red carpet to uncover and examine the canons, mores, and customs of clothing—rules that we often take for granted. After reading Dress Codes, you’ll never think of fashion as superficial again—and getting dressed will never be the same. -- provided by publisher.Description based on print version record.Electronic reproduction. Ann Arbor, MI : ProQuest, 2018. Available via World Wide Web. Access may be limited to ProQuest affiliated libraries.
Subjects: Electronic books.; Clothing and dress; Fashion; Clothing and dress;
On-line resources: https://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/kirtland-ebooks/detail.action?docID=6462797 -- Available online. Click here to access.;
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The consuming instinct : what juicy burgers, Ferraris, pornography, and gift giving reveal about human nature / by Saad, Gad.;
Includes bibliographical references and index.Consumers : born and made -- I will survive -- Let's get it on -- We are family -- That's what friends are for -- Cultural products : fossils of the human mind -- Local versus global advertising -- Marketing hope by selling lies -- Darwinian rationale for consumer irrationality -- Darwin in the halls of the business school.What do all successful fast-food restaurants have in common? Why do men's testosterone levels rise when they drive a Ferrari or a Porsche? Why are women more likely to become compulsive shoppers and men more likely to become addicted to pornography? How does the fashion industry play on our innate need to belong? The answer to all of these questions is "the consuming instinct," the underlying evolutionary basis for most of our consumer behavior. In this book, the author, founder of the new field of evolutionary consumption, illuminates the relevance of our biological heritage to our daily lives as consumers. While culture is important, he shows that innate evolutionary forces deeply influence the foods we eat, the gifts we offer, the cosmetics and clothing styles we choose to make ourselves more attractive to potential mates, and even the cultural products that stimulate our imaginations (such as art, music, and religion). This book demonstrates that most acts of consumption can be mapped onto four key Darwinian drives, namely, survival (we prefer foods high in calories); reproduction (we use products as sexual signals); kin selection (we naturally exchange gifts with family members); and reciprocal altruism (we enjoy offering gifts to close friends). The author further highlights the analogous behaviors that exist between human consumers and a wide range of animals. This work, which deals with the biological basis of human behavior and in what makes consumers tick, is of interest to marketing professionals, advertisers, psychology mavens, and consumers themselves.
Subjects: Consumer behavior.; Consumption (Economics); Consumers; Evolutionary psychology.;
© 2011., Prometheus Books,
Available copies: 1 / Total copies: 1
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